Myron: We’re going to hang this portion of the ceiling first. We want to get the measurement for this first panel before we put any adhesive on the framing. That way it doesn’t get all over our tape measure. We’ve already got the panel measured and cut. Now I’m going to go ahead and put the drywall adhesive on. I’m applying the drywall adhesive to each rafter, about a 3/8-inch-thick bead, a little past where the seam is going to hit, and all the way down to the bottom plate here. The drywall adhesive actually adds a little shear strength and reduces the fasten pops in my drywall, but it also will help seal these bays so it will reduce air leakage maybe from one bay to the next. Now we are going to go up easy, and I’m going to try to place it in this corner before we push it into the ceiling. Now go up against the ceiling. We’ll let it slide down slowly. Justin: When placing the sheets, be careful not to smear the caulk or adhesive too much. The framing is only an inch and a half wide, so smearing it can seriously compromise the integrity of the air barrier. Myron: You’ll notice how the adhesive is actually beyond the seam. I wanted that, because I wanted to make sure that I had adhesive all the way to this edge, because that makes a better air barrier. Justin, let’s get ready to measure the next sheet. Justin: Floating the butt seams allows faster drywall hanging and cleaner seams because you can use a recessed seam backer to pull the butt ends back where mud would otherwise build up. Myron: I’ve been able to apply adhesive to each rafter, but at this little gap between the…